But for all the good that retinoids do, they can sometimes cause skin irritation and dryness, making them tricky for some people to use.
Even retinol, the over-the-counter retinoid, may cause these side effects, leaving those sensitive to the skincare ingredient with limited options for other equally potent age-fighters.
Well, until bakuchiol entered the anti-aging picture. This plant-derived ingredient is widely referred to as retinol’s gentler counterpart, delivering many of the same complexion-enhancing benefits without the irritation. Because it's available over-the-counter, however, it's not likely a match for tretinoin. "Due to its historical data and clinical use, tretinoin is the most common standard of care and likely more effective," says Michael Krathen, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Natick, Massachusetts, and Chief Medical Advisor for Cottonball.
That said, what makes bakuchiol especially compelling is its ability to act as a partner to retinol, not just a substitute. “People can use bakuchiol and retinoids together to help boost the effects of the retinoid,” explains Dr. Krathen. (Indeed, Cottonball VX.1 Anti-Aging & Repair Complex contains both bakuchiol and prescription tretinoin.)
In fact, bakuchiol pairs well with most other skincare actives, so it can be added to just about any skincare routine.
Where did this gentle, congenial skincare hero come from, and what can it do for you? Read on to learn more.
What is bakuchiol?
Pronounced “buh-koo-chee-ol,” the natural, vegan ingredient is an extract from the psoralea corylifolia plant, known as the “babchi” plant, which is native to Asian countries. While it may seem as though bakuchiol is a skincare newbie, it’s long been used in traditional Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine to help calm and heal skin ailments thanks to its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant properties.
In modern skincare, bakuchiol flew under the radar for decades. But when data emerged a few years ago indicating that it performs as well as retinol to address signs of skin aging, the ingredient was catapulted into the spotlight.
What does bakuchiol do for the skin?
In essence, bakuchiol does everything that retinol does, with the added bonus of helping calm and soothe the skin. Like retinol, the natural ingredient increases skin cell turnover to stimulate collagen production, which helps improve skin in several ways:
Helps diminish fine lines and wrinkles: By increasing collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm and smooth, bakuchiol helps plump the skin and softens lines and wrinkles.
Fades dark spots and discoloration: Bakuchiol regulates skin’s natural exfoliation process, allowing fresh new cells to rise to the surface, which helps even out skin tone and brighten the complexion.
Prevents future signs of skin aging: By keeping the skin’s collagen cranking, bakuchiol helps maintain skin’s health and vitality so there are fewer visible signs of aging.
Calms skin and doesn’t cause dryness: While retinol can sometimes make skin dry and slightly irritated, bakuchiol is known for its anti-inflammatory benefits.
It could be said that it’s how bakuchiol differs from retinol that’s made it buzzworthy. A 2019 double-blind study compared the two ingredients and found that bakuchiol works as well as retinol in significantly reducing fine lines and hyperpigmentation while being markedly gentler on the skin. While the study was done on only 44 participants, which some experts say is too small to draw any definitive conclusions, fans of bakuchiol products swear by its complexion-boosting benefits.
With its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, bakuchiol is also showing promise as an acne treatment. While the research is still emerging, one study found that bakuchiol helped reduce mild to moderate acne and improve post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or PIH, which are the dark spots sometimes left behind after breakouts clear.
Another study found that using bakuchiol in conjunction with adapalene 0.1% gel (the popular over-the-counter treatment for acne) increases the efficacy of adapalene, while additional research on combining bakuchiol with salicylic acid led to a 67% reduction in moderate to severe acne, compared to a 48% reduction when using salicylic acid alone.
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What is the best way to use bakuchiol?
The skin-friendly ingredient is available in a wide variety of topical skincare products, and its efficacy appears to be the same whether it’s in a moisturizer, serum, or oil.
Bakuchiol has no known side effects or negative interactions with other ingredients, so it can be used with most other skincare. And unlike retinol, bakuchiol is generally considered safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding, though it hasn’t been specifically studied for this claim, so always check with your doctor first.
While retinol is typically applied only at night because it increases skin’s sensitivity to the sun, bakuchiol doesn’t appear to cause this issue, so you can apply a bakuchiol product twice a day for maximum benefits. (But you still need to slather on SPF 30 or higher every morning to protect your face and neck regardless.)
Cottonball VX.5 Undereye Smoothing & Brightening Balm can be customized to contain bakuchiol instead of tretinoin for people with sensitive skin.
Can you use bakuchiol with retinol?
While bakuchiol is typically chosen as a gentler alternative to retinol, research indicates that bakuchiol’s calming and stabilizing nature helps the skin tolerate retinoids better. Thus, if your skin does well with retinol, there’s no reason why you can’t use both ingredients together to power up your skincare regimen.
There’s no one-size-fits-all answer, as it depends on your skin type and individual needs. Bakuchiol is arguably more versatile, as it’s gentle on all skin types and can be used twice a day with just about any other skincare.
Retinol may not be ideal for sensitive skin, and it can’t be combined with other exfoliating ingredients. But retinol is backed by decades of research on its anti-aging benefits, whereas the comparable data on bakuchiol has only emerged in the past several years.
It’s also worth noting that no matter what your skin type, you should always ease into using a retinol product to reduce the chance of any side effects. Start by using it one night a week for one week, then twice a week for two weeks, and gradually build up your usage to give your skin a chance to adjust to the ingredient.
If, despite going slow, your skin still doesn’t do well with retinol, then a bakuchiol skincare routine is a gentle yet powerful alternative that will effectively treat lines, wrinkles, and discoloration and keep your complexion bright and glowing.
Is Cottonball VX.1 Advanced Anti-aging & Repair Complex or VX.5 Undereye Smoothing & Brightening Balm right for you? Take this short quiz or to find out.
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